Over the years, we’ve shipped hardwired LED mirrors to installers, contractors, and DIY homeowners across 60+ countries — and the questions we get most often aren’t about the mirror itself. They’re about the wiring. Specifically: how do I actually install this thing?
This guide walks you through the full process — from turning off the breaker to making the final connection — in plain language, with no assumed electrical knowledge. If you’re a first-timer, read the whole thing before you pick up a screwdriver. If you’ve done basic electrical work before, the step-by-step section is all you need.
See the complete installation in the video below.
⚠️ Safety Notice: Hardwired electrical work in a bathroom must comply with local building codes. In many regions (UK, Australia, parts of the US and Canada), bathroom wiring work is legally required to be carried out by a licensed electrician. Always check your local regulations before proceeding.
What You’ll Need
Tools
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Voltage tester / non-contact tester
- Wire stripper
- Drill + masonry or wood drill bits (depending on your wall type)
- Spirit level
- Pencil for marking
- Stud finder (for drywall installations)
- Electrical tape
Materials
- Your hardwired LED bathroom mirror (with mounting hardware included)
- Wall anchors and screws (usually supplied with the mirror)
- Wire connectors / terminal block (if not pre-wired)
- Cable conduit or chase (if running new wire
Before You Start: Understanding Your Mirror’s Wiring
Most hardwired LED mirrors connect to your home’s electrical supply in one of two ways:
- Junction box connection — the mirror connects directly to a recessed junction box in the wall (most common in new builds and renovations).
- Inline cable connection — the mirror has a short lead that connects to a supply cable behind the wall.
Check your mirror’s manual to confirm which type you have before starting. At STANHOM, all our mirrors ship with a wiring diagram in the box — if yours didn’t, contact your supplier before proceeding.
Also confirm your mirror’s IP rating. For bathroom installation, you need a minimum of IP44. Mirrors installed directly above a basin or in a shower zone require IP65 or higher.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Step 1: Turn Off the Power — and Verify It
Go to your electrical panel and switch off the circuit breaker for the bathroom. Don’t just flip the light switch — that’s not enough.
Once the breaker is off, use a non-contact voltage tester on the supply wires at the wall. Even with the breaker off, test before you touch anything. This is the step most DIYers skip — don’t.
Step 2: Remove the Old Mirror or Fixture
If you’re replacing an existing mirror or vanity light, remove it now. Take note of how the existing wiring is arranged — a quick photo with your phone before disconnecting anything will save you confusion later.
If there’s an existing junction box, check its condition. A damaged or corroded box should be replaced before you connect your new mirror.
Step 3: Mark and Prepare the Mounting Position
Use a pencil and spirit level to mark the exact position of your mirror on the wall. Standard mounting height places the center of the mirror at eye level — typically 165–170cm from the floor for most adults.
For vanity mirrors, the bottom edge of the mirror should sit roughly 5–10cm above the top of the basin backsplash. Mark the positions for your mounting brackets or keyhole slots using the template provided with your mirror.
Use a stud finder if you’re mounting into drywall — anchoring into studs is always preferable for a heavy mirror. For tile or masonry walls, use appropriate masonry anchors.
Step 4: Drill and Install the Mounting Hardware
Drill your pilot holes at the marked positions. For tile walls, use a tile drill bit at low speed to avoid cracking — and apply light, steady pressure rather than forcing it.
Insert wall anchors where needed, then screw in the mounting brackets or screws to the depth specified in your mirror’s instructions. Don’t fully tighten yet — leave a small gap to hang and adjust the mirror.
Step 5: Route and Prepare the Supply Wires
If you’re connecting to an existing junction box, the supply wires should already be accessible. If you’re running new cable, it must be routed inside the wall in a conduit or chase — surface-mounted cable in a bathroom is not acceptable in most jurisdictions.
Strip approximately 10–12mm of insulation from the end of each supply wire using your wire stripper. Standard wiring in most countries uses:
- Live / Line: Brown (EU/UK) or Black (older UK) or Black/Red (US)
- Neutral: Blue (EU/UK) or White (US)
- Earth / Ground: Green-yellow (EU/UK) or Green/bare copper (US)
⚠️ If your existing wiring uses old UK colours (red = live, black = neutral), treat it as live until confirmed otherwise by a qualified electrician.
Step 6: Connect the Mirror’s Wiring
Match and connect the wires from your mirror to the supply wires:
- Live to Live (brown to brown, or as per your local colour code)
- Neutral to Neutral (blue to blue)
- Earth to Earth (green-yellow to green-yellow)
Use wire connectors or the terminal block provided. Tug each connection gently after making it — a properly connected wire should not pull free. Wrap completed connections with electrical tape as an added precaution, then tuck the wiring neatly into the junction box or wall cavity.
Step 7: Hang and Level the Mirror
With the wiring connected and tucked away, carefully hang the mirror onto the mounting brackets or screws. Most LED mirrors use a keyhole or bracket system that allows you to slide the mirror into position.
Use your spirit level to confirm the mirror is perfectly horizontal. Once level, tighten the mounting screws fully. If your mirror includes a security screw at the bottom to prevent lifting, fit this now.
Step 8: Restore Power and Test
Go back to your electrical panel and switch the circuit breaker back on. Return to the bathroom and test the mirror:
- Touch the power button — the light should come on cleanly with no flicker
- Test the dimmer function if fitted
- Test the color temperature switch if fitted
- Test the anti-fog / demister function (it may take 1–2 minutes to warm up)
- Test any display, clock, or Bluetooth features
If the mirror doesn’t power on, go back to Step 1 and recheck your connections before anything else. A loose neutral connection is the most common cause of a non-starting mirror.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
| Mistake | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Skipping the voltage test | Breakers can be mislabelled. Always test before touching wires. |
| Mounting without checking for studs | A heavy mirror in drywall with no stud support will eventually pull free. |
| Reversing live and neutral | The mirror may appear to work but creates a shock hazard at the switch. |
| Ignoring the IP rating zone | Installing a low IP-rated mirror above a basin or near a shower is a safety violation. |
| Not earthing the mirror | Missing the earth connection is a serious shock risk — never skip it. |
When to Call an Electrician
Call a licensed electrician if any of the following apply:
- Your local regulations require it (UK Part P, Australian AS/NZS 3000, etc.)
- There is no existing junction box and new cable needs to be run
- You find aluminium wiring, knob-and-tube wiring, or anything that looks unusual
- The existing wiring shows signs of damage, scorching, or corrosion
- You’re not confident at any point in the process
The cost of an electrician for a straightforward mirror installation is typically $100–$300. That’s a small price compared to the risk of getting it wrong in a wet environment.
A Note on Mirror Quality and Installation
In 15 years of manufacturing, one thing we’ve learned is that installation problems are almost always one of two things: a wiring issue, or a mirror that wasn’t built to a proper standard in the first place.
A well-made LED mirror will have clearly labelled wiring, a proper earth connection point, and a wiring diagram in the box. If your mirror arrived without any of these, that’s a red flag — and a sign that the manufacturer cut corners elsewhere too.
All STANHOM mirrors ship with full installation documentation, CE/ETL certification, and pre-tested wiring. If you have questions about a specific model during installation, our after-sales team is available 24 hours.
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