It depends on the mirror model and the type of dimmer.
Most LED mirrors have built-in dimming controls on the mirror face itself,
so a wall dimmer is usually not required — and in some cases,
an incompatible wall dimmer can cause flickering or damage the LED driver.

If you want wall-switch dimming:
– Check that your mirror’s LED driver is rated as “dimmer compatible”
– Use a leading-edge (TRIAC) or trailing-edge dimmer rated for LED loads
– Avoid cheap universal dimmers — they’re a common cause of LED flicker

STANHOM mirrors with built-in dimming use touch controls on the mirror
surface for brightness adjustment — no wall dimmer needed.

| Feature | Plug-In | Hardwired |
|—|—|—|
| Installation | Simple — just needs a nearby GFCI outlet | Requires electrical connection to junction box |
| Appearance | Cord may be visible | Clean, no visible wiring |
| Flexibility | Easy to reposition | Permanent installation |
| Best for | Rentals, temporary setups | Renovations, permanent installs |
| Code compliance | Requires GFCI outlet within reach | Must meet local bathroom wiring codes |

STANHOM offers both plug-in and hardwired models.
For a permanent, clean-look installation, hardwired is always the preferred choice.

IP rating determines how water-resistant your mirror is —
and in bathrooms, this is a safety and code requirement, not just a preference.

| Bathroom Zone | Minimum IP Rating Required |
|—|—|
| Zone 0 (inside shower/bath) | IP67 or higher |
| Zone 1 (above bath/shower, up to 2.25m) | IP65 |
| Zone 2 (within 0.6m of shower) | IP44 |
| Outside zones (general bathroom) | IP44 minimum |

All STANHOM hardwired LED mirrors are rated IP44 minimum,
with select models rated IP65 for closer-to-shower installations.

This is one of the most common installation challenges. You have three options:

1. **Move the existing box** (requires an electrician): The cleanest solution,
especially for new builds or renovations.
2. **Add a new box** (requires an electrician): If rerouting wire is difficult,
a new box can be added at the correct location.
3. **Use a surface conduit** (DIY-friendly in some regions):
In utility areas or where aesthetics are less critical,
surface-mounted conduit can bridge the gap — but check local codes first.

At STANHOM, our mirrors are designed with a generous wire lead length
(typically 150–200mm) to give installers flexibility during connection.
Check your model’s spec sheet for exact dimensions.

For a straightforward replacement (existing junction box, same location):
– DIY with basic experience: 1–2 hours
– Professional electrician: 30–60 minutes

For a new installation (new circuit or relocated box):
– Electrician + installer: Half day (3–4 hours including wiring rough-in)

The most time-consuming steps are usually marking and drilling
mounting holes accurately, and making neat wiring connections.
STANHOM mirrors include a paper mounting template in the box
to speed up the layout step significantly.

The standard guideline is to center the mirror at 60″–64″ (152–163cm) from
the finished floor — roughly eye level for most adults.

But the right height also depends on:
– **Who uses it**: For households with children or varying heights,
consider adjustable mounting or a taller mirror.
– **Vanity height**: Leave 4″–6″ clearance above the faucet/backsplash.
– **Mirror size**: Taller mirrors (>36″) may need to be positioned lower
so the top doesn’t feel overwhelming in the space.

Pro tip: Before drilling, tape a piece of cardboard the same size as
your mirror to the wall and live with it for a day — it’s the easiest
way to confirm placement before committing.

LED bathroom mirrors are low maintenance, but a few simple habits
will keep yours looking great for years:

✅ Do:
– Use a soft microfiber cloth with water or a glass cleaner
– Wipe in circular motions to avoid streaking
– Clean the frame with a damp cloth (avoid abrasive cleaners on metal frames)

❌ Don’t:
– Spray cleaner directly onto the mirror surface — spray onto the cloth first
– Use ammonia-based cleaners (they can damage anti-fog coatings)
– Let water pool around the edges or seep behind the mirror

The LED components are sealed and require no maintenance.
If your mirror has a defogger, it’s self-cleaning by design.

Most LED bathroom mirrors with metal frames require grounding for safety.
However, some models use double insulation (Class II) and don’t require
a separate ground wire.

How to check:
– Look for the double-insulation symbol (□ inside □) on your mirror or manual.
– If your mirror has a metal frame and only two wires (live + neutral),
check the junction box — the ground connection is often made to the
metal box itself via a green screw.

When in doubt, always consult a licensed electrician.
A bathroom is a wet zone — grounding is not optional where required.

Most LED mirrors — including all STANHOM models — have a built-in touch
or rocker switch on the mirror face itself. But the circuit still needs
a wall switch or breaker upstream.

**Common setups:**
– **Standard**: Wall switch controls circuit power; mirror’s touch
switch controls light on/off and dimming.
– **Smart home integration**: Some models support connection to smart
switches (Lutron, Leviton) for voice or app control.
– **Always-on circuit**: Many installers leave the breaker on permanently
and use only the mirror’s built-in controls for daily use.

Note: If your mirror has a defogger or Bluetooth speaker,
these may operate independently from the main light switch.

It depends on your specific situation. Here’s a quick breakdown:

| Scenario | DIY OK? |
|—|—|
| Replacing existing hardwired fixture, same circuit | ✅ Yes, if you’re comfortable with basic wiring |
| Adding a brand-new circuit | ❌ Licensed electrician required |
| Moving or relocating a junction box | ❌ Licensed electrician required |
| UK / Australia installations | ❌ Legally required by code |

At STANHOM, every mirror ships with a full wiring diagram and country-specific
code notes — so you always know exactly what applies to your region before you start.

Yes — but tile installation requires extra care to avoid cracking. Here’s what works:

1. **Use the right bit**: Carbide-tipped or diamond-tipped drill bits only.
Never use standard masonry bits on tile.
2. **Start slow**: Begin at low speed (no hammer mode) with light,
steady pressure.
3. **Mark with tape**: Place masking tape over the drill point —
it prevents the bit from slipping across the tile surface.
4. **Check behind the tile**: Confirm the substrate (drywall, cement board,
or stud) can support your mirror’s weight.
STANHOM mirrors range from X–Xkg — always check your model’s spec sheet.
5. **Use rated anchors**: Standard drywall anchors are NOT sufficient for tile.
Use toggle bolts or anchors rated for the combined tile + substrate depth.

This depends on your location and the scope of work:

✅ DIY is generally acceptable when:
– You’re replacing an existing fixture on the same circuit
– You’re comfortable with basic electrical connections
– Your local code permits homeowner electrical work

❌ A licensed electrician is required when:
– You’re in the UK, Australia, or many Canadian provinces
(bathroom wiring is legally restricted)
– You’re adding a new circuit or moving a junction box
– You’re unsure about any part of the wiring process

When in doubt, hire a pro. The cost of a licensed electrician
for a simple mirror installation is typically $75–$150 —
far less than the cost of fixing a mistake in a wet zone.